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In the late afternoon, families were out for strolls and poking their heads in the children's clothing and toy stores. The and cent slots were standing room only everywhere I turned.

THE other gamblers did not look pleased. My inclination was to lose my money as anonymously as possible. There was even a New England regional poker tournament. The historic village is compact and crowded with small boutiques. When it comes to risk, I'm no Evel Knievel, even when it's to be taken over drinks, on green felt.

The next morning was overcast. For if Las Vegas is a neon shrine to glitz, and Atlantic City a dowdy hybrid of grime and show biz, Foxwoods represents the suburbanization of casino culture. The woman's teeth clicked. The read article of casinos is connected to two hotels, with 1, rooms; a room inn is situated nearby.

I took a wrong turn at the Food Court and ended up at the doors of a room that looked as if it were built to hold a fleet of 's. Video poker is a step up to gambling kindergarten, requiring higher-level brain function: you have to press multiple buttons after deciding whether to hold the cards the machine deals you.

I hardly noticed the cigarettes all around me now, as I located a machine in the Grand Pequot Casino and started feeding it 50's. I drew an 8 on my 12, for a total of 20, often a winning hand in blackjack, otherwise known as The dealer, it was revealed in the tense denouement of the hand, had 15, and if I had passed and the 8 had gone to him, his over-the-limit 23 would have meant a payoff for the whole table.

We got in the car, drove to Mystic and relaxed before dinner. Foxwoods has a normal Vegas-style assortment of gambling distractions: craps tables, roulette, keno, betting on the horses. But no, it was just the Foxwoods bingo hall, with seating for 3, Enough bingo for the entire population of Moonachie, N.

Some players, apparently fearful of forgetting their Wampum Club cards, inserted them in the machine with plastic cords affixed to their sweaters, like umbilical cords.

End machines were as hard to come by as summer rentals with ocean views. That evening, we meandered through a long, leisurely meal down by the Seaport at the Capt. A shrimp cocktail also arrived, fresh and appetizing, each crustacean on its own lemon slice, followed by an architecturally ambitious presentation of beef tournedos.

The wide, coldly appointed walkways had that unmistakable Mall of America feel. The man and woman next to me deftly balanced cigarettes between their fingers as they worked the buttons. Foxwoods fatigue was setting in fast.

As for Val, her idea of a madcap betting impulse was tickets to a movie we hadn't read about first. Four aces flashed on my screen, and then 45 minutes of nothing.

So we had to know: was it possible for us to find the music that so many others hear, to swing for a couple of days to the beat of clinking coins? In fact, Foxwoods is designed to trigger all sorts of familiar American spending rituals. If baccarat is the sort of abstract expressionism of casino gambling -- I haven't a clue how it's played -- the slot machines are finger painting.

The captivating fog of money-lust enveloped me. The coffee was great, we felt compelled to report. My destination, however, was video poker. I retrieved a C-note and headed for my date with the seething denizens of that blackjack table.

What I'd done wrong was win at the expense of everyone else. Sheepishly, I scooped up my chips -- a hundred dollars' worth, the precise amount I had started with an hour and a half earlier -- and backed away from the table in the Grand Pequot Casino, the poshest of the gambling rooms at Foxwoods, the betting mecca in Mashantucket, Conn.

Wheelchairs were maneuvered next to machines at awkward angles; one man was wandering around with what looked to be a portable IV drip, a plastic tube protruding from his arm. But first, I had to find a slot machine, and on this Saturday afternoon, that was no safe bet.

Stay with one machine and be patient, she also advised. Instead he drew a 4, for a total of 19, a victory over my fellow players.

Some visitors brought their children, who were scrupulously kept from the casinos by the security people. The drive from Mystic to Foxwoods on Saturday morning, along a country road lined with ivy-covered trees, was not the car-clogged nightmare I was imagining, and it was easy to find a spot in the garage underneath the newest hotel in the complex, the Grand Pequot Tower.

I rendezvoused with Val outside the smoke-free slots area. I gazed at the casino map -- you needed a map -- and noticed a zone marked ''Nonsmoking gaming tables. It certainly doesn't lack crowds. For the evening, Foxwoods was presenting the Charlie Daniels Band.

When I tried to make a hotel reservation in early March, I was told no rooms were available until late April. But not for me. I have no idea whether these were wagering facts or fiction, and I had no chance to try out some of the strategies. The casino attire was retirement-village casual -- the average age was about 60 -- and everywhere there were men in sweatsuits and women in sneakers and windbreakers.

I went to the Foxwoods Web site and found blackjack arcade grime recommended places to stay, including a Hilton in Mystic, a minute drive from the casino. The man on my right, who wore a large ceramic belt buckle and a look of utter exasperation, had glanced at me disdainfully any time I as much as hesitated during a game.

I got dressed quickly and early, stepped over the fat Sunday paper at our door, and headed for the car, jacks and kings and aces swimming in my head. Foxwoods, opened by the tribe in February and expanded several times since then, check this out occupies a total of 4.

Our chromosomes seemed to be short the gene for blowing large amounts of money on games of chance. Many gamblers had arrived on the blackjack all about casino buses that pulled in and out of Foxwoods's own depot in endless rotation.

I admit it. It reminded us that we really should pay a visit to the new Mashantucket Pequot Museum and Research Center, just down the road, to learn something about the tribe.

I was grumpy, but the Bistro chef revived please click for source spirits.

The hotel, across the street from the Mystic Aquarium, met our weekender specs: well-run, quiet, comfortable. Up the 3 payout top blackjack to the casino level.

I went back to video poker. She was skipping. The Indian flavor was minimal; here and there were reminders of the casino's proprietorship, as in the booths marked Wampum Club, the casino's players club.

In some instances, single bettors were hogging two machines. All it seems to lack is a Banana Republic. Threading through the complex are 24 restaurants, 17 stores, a dance blackjack arcade grime, theater and arcades: the betting parlor as mall.

Dumb thing to say. Foxwoods is to wagering what San Simeon is to tract houses: simply overwhelming in scale. We made another vow to get in some culture; we really should stop by the Indian museum. If ever there was a place to find out, it was Foxwoods, the impossibly vast, turquoise-roofed casino-resort that rises over the New England countryside like a multitiered mountain of cash.

Minutes earlier, we had passed a herd of grazing sheep on the two-lane highway that links the casino with I, just west of the Rhode Island line.

I finally settled into a house rules vegas video poker machine in the middle of a long row, breaking one of the rules passed on to me by a slots-crazed acquaintance: try for a machine on the end, because it gets more traffic and thus has more blackjack arcade grime to dispense.

All you need is a dollar and a digit. The Hilton, which is owned by the tribe, also offered shuttle service to Foxwoods: on the weekend we were there early this month, the shuttle ran every two hours.

A staff member actually called to ask if the room-service breakfast was up to snuff. Val had had enough; betting the k 's was not blackjack arcade grime vice, so she lingered over the paper on a lounge chair by the hotel's heated pool.

The man irritated me with his squeals of delight every time he won. The visitors' props of choice were little plastic buckets the better to lug your quarters in and cigarettes.

In another round, he had actually commandeered my hand, making the cutoff signal to the dealer on my pitiful behalf. Was a card game supposed to be this jaw-clenchingly intimidating?

Now, a contemporary palace loomed incongruously in the windshield. Somewhere, jackpot bells rang and quarters dropped like hail. The guy at my left shoulder smiled patronizingly. We had a late lunch in the Bistro at Foxwoods, the casino's designated nonsmoking restaurant.

Blackjack cheating place was bathed in eau d'ashtray.

What is it about nicotine and slot machines? There is, after all, almost nothing else to do there. I would have stayed longer, but I had run out of cash. When I left the table later that afternoon, with enough money in my pocket for lunch and gas and tolls on the Triborough Bridge, I felt as if I had made it through a hazing ritual.

Bet me. You can sit at a slot for what feels like days, pressing the maximum-bet button and watching the dials spin. We had come to the Mashantucket Pequot Reservation for the kind of weekend we had never spent: my wife and I were gambling babes-in-the-Foxwoods. I also wanted the money to last the weekend, and I thought that electronic poker could be an entertaining and low-pressure introduction. Mixed greens doused in a chianti vinaigrette and stuffed sea bass on a bed of orzo was a dandy consolation. Foxwoods estimates that 40, people visit daily. Figuring that the Mystic Seaport, a popular tourist destination in its own right, would be an additional diversion, we booked a room at the Hilton on the ''executive level.